Kakadu and Katherine Gorge

Hi again

Am having a few formatting challenges so pics are a little out of sync. First one is canoeing on Katherine gorge. Second is sunset over Yellow Waters in Kakdu. Third is at the top of Gunlom Falls in Kakdu and the last is a big croc in the East Alligator River, Kakadu. See below for Tess's blog :) Em x

G’day
Its Tess, Charlie and Harry here, reporting from Daintree rainforest. Sorry for not writing for ages, but we have been out of range. I have a lot to write about, so to fill you in on our news-
After Darwin we drove to Kakadu.
On our first day we went on a cruise down Yellow Waters and the East Crocodile River. Our tour guide, Michael, told us all about some of the different species of birds that inhabit the area and also about the salt water crocodiles.
Our (Harry and Charlie’s) favourite bird was the kingfisher. It grows up to 5cm and has a blue tummy with orange back feathers. It was a good thing that it was Michael’s favourite bird, because they are very hard to spot as they are little and like to hide amongst the leaves of the trees.
Estuarine crocodiles are very dangerous. They have attacked and killed people.
That is the opening sentence of every sign warning of crocodiles in every lake, creek or billabong in Kakadu National Park.
On our cruise we saw more than 20 estuarine (or saltwater) crocodiles, but only few of them were in the water. The largest crocodile in the East Alligator River was 3.5m long, and some crocodiles grow up to double that size. He swam along side us in the boat and we got some really good photos of him. My (Harry speaking) favourite crocodile was hauled up on the bank. The vibration of the boat scared him so he jumped up and dived into the water. I think he was showing off. When we got back, we watched the sunset and the smoke from all the fires glowed red in the evening light. That night, we lathered our selves in Bushman’s mosquito repellent as the mozzies were horrendous.

The next day we went on an Aboriginal rock art walk. The colours of the paintings were red orange yellow, white and brown. The sandstone overhangs were layered with animals, handprints and spirits of the dreamtime. We liked the barramundi and the turtle. They were so detailed they almost looked alive. Then we did some rock climbing up a hill and over looked floodplains, wetlands and Arnhem Land, where Aborigines still live traditionally today. We did 2 more short walks including one where mum and I (Tess) explored the tree tops of a rainforest – a women’s sacred site.
We swam in the cool and silky waters of Gunlom falls- the only place in Kakadu without crocodiles. We climbed a mountain to the top of the falls and looked down over the bottom pools, it was a bit scary.

At Katherine we canoed down the Gorge. Mum and I (Tess) shared a kayak and Harry and dad had a canoe. Charlie paddled by himself but Mum and I had to tow him most of the time. I think he couldn’t admit he had no muscles! We pulled up at many beaches and had swims in the crystal clear water. We also paddled into some caves. They were dark and scary and we kept hearing freaky sounds.
All the cruises we passed were staring in jealousy out the sides. It looked like they wanted to canoe!!!! We hired the canoes for 4 hours and paddled 6.5km. The next morning we went on a walk to a lookout over the gorge. We saw some other people canoeing and we were waving and screaming at them “Hello!!!” This time I felt jealous!


The next 4 days we drove non-stop until we finally reached the Daintree, but I’ll tell you about that in our next blog. Bye for now, Tess and Harry

West MacDonnell Ranges and Litchfield Nat Park

Hi all!

It's Em here. Tess has written blog below but I thought I'd tell you about the photos on the left. The first one is of Tess and Charlie jumping into the rock pools at Buley Rock Holes. The second is taken near Florence Falls. The third is the view through our tent of Glen Helen Gorge and the last was taken in Ormiston Gorge.

G’day
This is Tess here!
Recently we have been to the West MacDonnell Ranges.
On the way, driving there, we stopped off at Standley Chasm (or as Charlie and I call it, Standley Spasm). We did the Gorge walk. The sun was shining on the dusty brown rocks, causing them to look red; the walk was fun, especially when we did the last rock climbing bit. Once we got to Glen Helen Station we went on another walk, the Redbank Gorge walk. There were lots of rocks made of quartz and granite. At the end of the walk there was a huge water hole, but it was a bit nippy so we didn’t swim.
We also hiked Ormiston Pound/Gorge -7.5ks. The first two hours was really tiring, and it got really hot, but when we all started singing the song ‘100 bottles of beer on the wall’ it cheered us up. At the end of the walk, there were lots of little water holes, and some of them had ducks in them. The best part of the hike though, would have to be the amazing look out, boasting views of Ormiston Pound and the Gorge.

We stayed at dad’s friend’s retreat at Bond Springs and dined like the Royals in their house for breakfast and dinner. We didn’t do much at Alice Springs excepting the Desert Park. Our audio guide told us about the many different flora and fauna in the desert, and about the desert itself. Unfortunately we didn’t allow much time to spend there but we did get to see a dramatic slideshow called ‘A Changing Heart’, a nocturnal animal exhibit and a ranger talk on how to find water in the desert as well as having a little wander.

At Edith Falls it started to heat up to 32 degrees. And what flies!!! (Or so I thought……)
There was a waterhole at the bottom of a waterfall that was 150m wide. Although it was cold, we still swam. Terrified by the crocodile safety signs posted up, I was very cautious of the depth and darkness of the water but mum and dad reassured me that they are only around in the wet season, and even if they were, signs would be up telling us not to swim.
We spent three days at Litchfield enjoying their pools and waterfalls nonstop. Florence Falls was within an easy walking distance from our site and we visited those pools three times. The water was crystal clear and quite warm. Charlie and I had great fun clambering down the creek over rocks and cascades occasionally losing our crocs because of the strong currents. We were surrounded by lush rainforest the whole way down, it was really beautiful We also swam over to the waterfalls and through to the other side. The water hurt a bit because it was pelting down really fast and hard.

A 3km walk in 33 degrees tired us out but luckily it was to the Buley Rockholes which turned out to be the most fantastic place ever (according to me).It started with one deep pool up the top which went sideways into another pool and there were lots more water holes all connected by mini waterfalls and cascades. Charlie and I had heaps of fun doing bombs off the rock until I slipped nearly hit the rock. This gave me a huge fright! My bombing off rock days are over.

We are now in Darwin. Last night we went to the Mindil Beach markets. After a scrumptious dinner the boys and girls split and Mum and I spent a lot of time perusing the stalls with hippy clothes, jewellery and gifts. I bought a pair of turquoise fisherman ¾ pants and an aboriginal painting book mark. The boys got wooden animals that made different sounds when you blow into them or stroke their corrugated backs. Mum bought some fisherman pants too. Dad bought a kangaroo leather wrist band. He thinks he looks really cool. We watched the sun set over the beach and saw a fire show (which freaked me out a bit!). The boys also watched the Amazing Drumming Monkeys which was a puppet show with monkeys that played the bongos. Harry thought it was hilarious. Today we went to the NT Museum and Art Gallery. There was an exhibition on Cyclone Tracey which hit Darwin on Christmas Day in 1974. There was a room where you could listen to a recording of the noise that the cyclone made. Daddy, Charlie and Harrison went in but the noise was too loud for me. Harry was a bit freaked out.

Tomorrow we go to Kakadu to visit the mozzies and crocodiles. Sorry, we’ll be out of range again for a week or so but will fill you in on lots of news when we can.

Bye!
Tess

Kings Canyon/Alice Springs

Hi All!

Talk about commitment, I am currently sitting outside in 1 deg to write this post and my hands are almost too cold to type!

Unfortunately I am unable to upload photos again, poor reception but will try again on Monday from an internet cafe in Alice. Tomorrow we head bush again into the West MacDonnell Ranges for a couple of nights. There was a moment today where I thought we might stay put and do some day trips (trying to save another round of setup/packup!) but the sterility of this caravan park, for all its niceities, is motivating me to dig deep. That and the jump castle which seemed like a fab idea until it became apparent that either Shane or I had to sit and supervise the kids the whole time! Trying to convince the kids that hanging out with us and doing some schoolwork (minimal has been done thus far) and their journals just didn't quite work. And so the negotiations began (ie bribes etc).

Our time at Kings Canyon was sensational. We camped at Kings Creek Station which is about 40 km from the canyon and neighbouring resort. It is a working station and had a great rustic campground. Charlie has been busting to rise a camel and here he was able to realise his dream. Would have loved to post the photo of him on his camel, bursting with pride and excitement :) We had big a big communal campfire at nights and our camp oven was christened with some dubious damper but I have great plans for the next batch.
We did the rim walk on one of the days and we are in agreeance that this walk was the most spectacular to date, stunning views and wonderful rock formations. Again this was a more challenging hike for the kids but we have a great bribe going.... if they complete the walk then they get an ice-cream of choice (ie not within the usual $2 limit).

I have had a bit of a disaster with this post and seem to have lost most of it! Am too cold to rewrite it tonight so will have to fill you in on rest next time! Bye for now. Em

Kings Canyon

Hi All!

Talk about commitment,I am currently sitting outside in

Uluru

Hi again! This is Tess writing - finally!

Things are starting to chill out now and we have spent the last two days here at Uluru. Uluru is awesome! We took a walk on the Mala track around the base of Uluru. When I looked up I was scared it would fall on me - it is enormous!!!!!! We also checked out the Cultural Centre which was really interesting but unfortunately Harrison didn't think so and we couldn't stay as long as we would have liked to. Mum bought us a book today so we can read more about the aboriginal history and stories of Uluru. She is going to give us a comprehension activity for our school work from the book.

Last night Mum, Charlie, harry and I (Dad had a Nana nap)drove to the sunset viewing area to watch to colours change. During the day it was a dusty orange then it faded to bright red and then aubergine (a deep purple) and then dark brown. It was fascinating to see the effect of the sun. Tonight Dad and the boys (for a second time) are going out to see it again. This morning Dad set the alarm for 6.00am (!!) and we drove to the sunrise lookout. At first it was cloudy and you couldn't see the sun rising and then it started to rain. Lots of people left and Mum and I wanted to as well but Dad wouldn't leave. Luckily we stayed becuase it started to clear up and it looked like a huge ring of fire was encircling Uluru.

This morning we went on a 7.4km hike through Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). The walk was called the Valley of the Winds and they didn't name it for nothing! It was rated a difficult walk but after Mt Oulsen Bagge, it was like a walk in the park!

Tomorrow we are heading to Kings Canyon. Will keep you posted ASAP.

Tess :)

Oodnadatta Track

Hi! Sorry you've got me again. We seem to be so busy during the days and Tess is sound asleep as I type. If there is time in the morning before we leave, i'll get her to write a few words.

The photo on your right is of the kids with Lili, Evie and Orlo on the Blinman Pools walk in the Flinders Ranges. I thought it was pretty cute :) Middle photo is at Coward Springs and the left photo is of our trailer set up without the annex (kitchen is pulled out at the back) - for you Jane x

Since our last post we have travelled to Leigh Creek via Port Augusta (big backtrack involved) where we picked up our new wheel and open roof rack. Now we look like real outback travellers, complete with firewood strapped to the roof racks for campfires at night (thanks Sara and David for the tip!). Leigh Creek was quite a surprise really. All the houses are exactly the same (cream weatherboard transportables) and the streets are all identical with lovely gum trees and native plants - quite a contrast to the bleak countryside surroundings. I was quite sad to miss one of my old students from Adelaide who is now the Vice Principal at the Leigh Creek Area School, she chose a terrible time to go to Canada!

From Leigh Creek we headed north to Maree and then west on the Oodnadatta Track. The roads here were actually better than in the Flinders and we have had no more tyre troubles (Murphy's Law in action there!). Last night was spent at a gorgeous little oasis Coward Springs. We enjoyed a refreshing dip in the natural spas when we arrived before setting up for the night. We didn't put the annex up for the first time, mostly because it was an overnight stay and we couldn't be bothered but also because for the first time the weather was warm enough to hang outside around the campfire for dinner. After the kids went to bed, Shane and I watched a dingo hovering only metres from our tent. Needless to say we were glad that the kids (particularly Tess who had shown grave concern) didn't see the big dog and were fastidiously clean in our pack up of the dinner and kitchen!

Today we drove through William Creek (dropped in to the Pub) and on to Coober Pedy (which I have referred to as Cooper Pedy for ever before being corrected by my daughter over dinner!). The Old Timers Mine was a great delight to both the kids and Shane and I this afternoon. Only 20 years ago when they were extending the museum to include a lower entry point, they came upon an opal vein worth $50,000! They have left a couple of veins within the mine for visitors to see - I wonder how many have tried their luck at excavation whilst doing the self guided tour over the years? I imagine that the closed circuit TV would discourage many.

Tomorrow we head north to Kulgera (?) which is about half way to Uluru. Sunday we'll arrive at Uluru for a couple of days before heading on the Kings Canyon and the West Macdonald Ranges.

Kids still having a ball. Harry is in a perpetual state of excitement. I think most of it has to do with having his beloved Dad about 24/7. Harry will tell Shane how much he loves him at least a dozen times a day! Tess and Charlie seem to have slipped into the travelling zone nicely. They are particularly happy when out bushwalking and exploring, lots more of that to come! Life around the campsite is pretty cruisy. We have a bit of a jobs roster going and they are becoming more useful (particularly Tess) when breaking camp or setting up. It feels as though we have been on the road for weeks, but it has been only 11 days! How wonderful to think that we still have 8 weeks to go :)

Hope you are all well. Em x